Statewide Appliance Spares Blog

Your dryer might not be the hero of your home appliances, but when you need it most — especially during winter or rainy weather — you want it working properly. If your dryer is taking longer to dry clothes, not heating, or making strange noises, these are common warning signs your dryer may be failing. Identifying the problem early can help you avoid costly repairs, reduce energy bills and extend the life of your appliance.   Safety first! Before attempting any repair: Unplug the dryer Allow it to cool completely Take photos before disconnecting components 1. Dryer not heating properly Warning sign: Clothes are still damp after a full cycle, even on high heat.   Why it matters: Without heat, your dryer can’t remove moisture, leaving clothes damp.  Running repeated cycles only increases wear on your unit and drives up your energy costs.   What to do: Clean the lint filter thoroughly: Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen, roll off any excess lint with your fingers, then scrub the screen with a soft brush dipped in hot water and liquid detergent to remove residue build-up. Rinse it in hot water, allow it to dry completely, and then reinstall it back into the dryer.   Check out our guide: How often should you clean your dryer lint filter Check external vents for blockages: Blocked vents restrict airflow, leading to prolonged drying times. To clear blocked vents, first unplug the dryer. Disconnect the vent hose and use a dryer vent brush with a vacuum to remove built-up lint from both ends. Clean the lint trap housing, hose and external vent to restore airflow and reduce fire risk.   If airflow is clear but there’s still no heat, the heating element or thermostat may be faulty.   Parts you might need: Dryer heating element, thermal fuse, thermostat   DIY or call a pro? Cleaning vents is easy DIY. Replacing heating components may require a qualified repair technician, depending on your confidence level.   2. Dryer taking much longer to dry clothes   Warning sign: Cycles that once took 60 minutes now take 2–3 hours.   Why it matters: Poor airflow or a failing heating component forces the dryer to work harder and longer (which also increases your energy costs).   What to do: Check: Lint filter – clean the lint filter thoroughly Vent hose – Check and clear blockages External vent outlet – Check for obstructions and dislodge lint and debris Restricted airflow is the most common cause.   *IMPORTANT* Disconnect the dryer from power and gas, if applicable, before checking and cleaning your vents.   If airflow is clear, the thermostat or heating element may be underperforming.   Parts you might need: Dryer heating element, thermostat, thermal fuse, vent hose   DIY or call a pro? Cleaning filters and vents is easy DIY task. Replacing a vent hose is usually straightforward. Heating elements and thermostats may require a technician, depending on your experience level.   3. Loud squeaking, grinding or thumping noises Warning sign:Your dryer suddenly becomes noisy during operation.   Why it matters: Unusual noises often point to drive belt problems, worn rollers, idler pulleys or bearings.   What to do: If you hear: Squeaking:  It’s likely worn rollers. Unplug the dryer and check for worn or flattened rollers that may need replacing. Thumping: Usually a drum support or roller issue. Inspect rollers for flat spots and check the drum for uneven movement. Grinding:  May indicate worn bearings. If the noise is coming from the rear of the drum and continues throughout the cycle, stop using the dryer and arrange repair. Parts you might need: Drum rollers, idler pulley, drum bearing   DIY or call a pro? Mechanical parts like rollers and pulleys can be DIY for confident users. Bearing replacement is best left to a qualified service technician.   4. Drum not spinning   Warning sign: You hear the motor running, but the drum isn’t turning.   Why it matters: Without drum rotation, clothes won’t tumble and dry evenly. You will typically find your clothes stay damp. The motor may still run (listen for the humming noise) but the drum will not turn. In some instances, the dryer may shut off to prevent overheating.   What to do: Inspect the drive belt: Unplug the dryer and remove the rear or top panel to check. If it has snapped, slipped off or looks worn, it will need replacing.If the belt is still in place and intact, but the drum won’t turn, the motor may be worn or faulty (leave that task to a professional)   Parts you might need: Dryer drive belt, motor   DIY or call a pro? Drive belt replacement is often DIY-friendly. Motor replacement is best left to a technician.   5. Burning smell during operation Warning sign: You notice a hot or burning smell while the dryer is running.   Why it matters: This can indicate lint buildup, overheating components or electrical issues. Dryer fires are often linked to poor airflow and lint accumulation.   What to do: Turn off dryer: Turn off the dryer immediately and unplug it. Check and clean the lint filter, then inspect the vent hose and external vent for lint build-up or blockages. Make sure the dryer has proper airflow and isn’t overloaded.   Call a professional: If the burning smell continues after cleaning, stop using the appliance — it could indicate an overheating heating element, worn belt or electrical fault, which should be assessed by a technician.   Parts you might need: Dryer heating element, thermostat, thermal fuse   DIY or call a pro? Lint cleaning is essential DIY maintenance. Electrical issues require a technician.     6. Dryer shuts off mid-cycle   Warning sign: The dryer starts but stops before the cycle finishes.   Why it matters: This often indicates overheating. Many dryers automatically shut down when internal temperatures exceed safe limits.   What to do: Check for blocked airflow: lean the lint filter thoroughly, inspect the vent hose for kinks, and clear any lint build-up from the external vent. Make sure the dryer isn’t overloaded, as heavy loads can also cause overheating.   Check out our guide: Why you should never overload your dryer   If the dryer continues to shut off mid-cycle after cleaning and allowing it to cool down, the thermal fuse, thermostat or heating element may be faulty and will likely need replacing.   Parts you might need: Dryer heating element, thermostat, thermal fuse, vent hose   DIY or call a pro? Cleaning filters and vents is straightforward DIY maintenance. Replacing a vent hose is usually simple. Thermal fuses and thermostats may be DIY for confident users, but electrical testing and heating element replacement are often best handled by a qualified repair technician.   DIY repairs you can tackle Cleaning lint filters and vents Replacing drive belts Replacing drum rollers Clearing airflow restrictions   When to call in the experts Motor replacement Electrical faults Bearing replacement Repeated overheating issues Should you repair or replace?   Repair makes sense when: The dryer is under 10–12 years old Only one component has failed Repair cost is under $400–500 The issue involves common wear parts (belt, rollers, thermostat) Consider replacing when: The unit is 15+ years old Multiple major components are failing Repairs exceed 50% of replacement cost For simple dryer repairs, DIY is typically a cost-effective and environmentally smart solution, that will keep your appliance working longer   All the latest on the Statewide blog Visit our blog where you can find quick fixes for common appliance emergencies, easy dryer maintenance tips, top washer and dryer energy saving tips plus so much more!    Useful guides  Warning signs your oven is failing (and what to do) Warning signs your fridge is failing (and what to do) Warning signs your washing machine is failing (and what to do) Check out our YouTube channel Need help with your home appliance repairs and maintenance? Check out our DIY videos on our YouTube Channel. All the expert hints and tips to make appliance repairs a breeze!   Need replacement dryer parts fast? Find genuine dryer spare parts from leading brands including Bosch, Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel, LG, Miele and Speed Queen. With Australia’s biggest range and fast delivery, we’ll help you get your dryer perform at its best.   Not sure what part you need? Call 1800 005 220 or chat with our expert team online.

If there is one household appliance you can't live without, it's your washing machine. Your washer can handle multiple loads each week, turning dirty clothes into fresh brights. Regular maintenance and care will keep your washer running like new for many years. Sometimes there are red flags that indicate your washer may be on the brink of a breakdown. Here are some of the warning signs your washing machine is failing — and what you should do about it. Safety First! Before attempting any repair: Unplug the machine or switch off at the circuit breaker Turn off the water supply Have towels ready for residual water Take photos before disconnecting wires If unsure, contact a qualified technician 1. Water isn't draining properly Warning sign: Water remains in the drum at the end of a cycle, or your machine displays a drain error code. Why it matters: If water can't drain, your clothes won't rinse properly, and your machine can't spin efficiently. What to do: Check the drain pump (usually located behind a small panel at the front). Remove any lint and debris that may be clogging the drain pump. If a clogged drain pump is not the problem, inspect your drain hose for any kinks or bends and straighten the hose. Check the hose for any blockages or obstructions. Parts you might need: Washing machine drain pump, drain hose DIY or call a pro? Cleaning the filter is easy DIY. Replacing a drain pump is achievable for confident DIYers. Electrical diagnostics may require a technician. Check out our guide to fixing a washing machine that won't drain. 2. Washing machine shakes or makes weird noises Warning sign: Your washing machine shakes excessively, moves or makes loud thumping noises. Why it matters: Unbalanced loads can cause noise, but persistent banging may mean worn suspension rods, shock absorbers or drum bearings. What to do: Check your washer is level: This is often a result of your washing machine not sitting level on the floor. It should be positioned on a solid, flat level surface. Ensure your load is balanced: Open your washer and adjust your laundry load if it has all moved to one side. Replace worn suspension springs: If vibration continues, it could be due to a worn suspension spring. With regular use, the suspension springs in top loaders can become stretched, damaged or can even detach and will need replacing. Check shock absorbers: Shock absorbers sit between the outer tub and base frame to reduce vibration during the spin cycle. If they're worn or leaking, you'll hear loud banging as the tub hits the frame — check for damage or fluid leaks and replace both if needed. Replace worn drum bearings: If shaking continues, worn drum bearings may be the cause. When bearings wear out, the drum can wobble during the spin cycle, leading to excessive vibration and loud rumbling noises. Parts you might need: Suspension rods, shock absorbers, drum bearings DIY or call a pro? Level adjustments are simple DIY. Suspension parts can be replaced, but bearing issues often require professional repair. 3. Water leaking from your washing machine Warning sign: Puddles forming beneath or around your washing machine. Why it matters: Leaks can cause serious water damage to floors and cabinetry if left unchecked. What to do: Visually inspect the hoses: Look for any signs of wear, including bulges, cracks, fraying, or leaks. Pay close attention to areas near the connections, as these are common failure points. Replace worn out hoses. Check out our guide: How to inspect and easily replace your washing machine hoses Inspect the door seal (front loaders): Wipe down the drum, door and gasket. Give the seals a thorough clean with a toothbrush or soft bristled sponge. Water, dirt, and grime can get trapped in the seal's folds, leaving a musty smell or cause mould or mildew to grow. Check the seals for any damage, splits or cracks and replace if necessary. Lastly, look underneath for signs of pump or tub leaks. Parts you might need: Washing machine hoses, washing machine door seal, pumps DIY or call a pro? Hoses and door seals are straightforward DIY replacements. Internal tub leaks require professional assessment. 4. Machine not spinning properly Warning sign: Clothes are soaking wet at the end of the cycle. Why it matters:  A failed spin cycle increases drying time and may indicate motor, belt, or control issues. What to do: Check the load isn't too heavy: The easiest way to avoid an imbalanced drum is by making sure you place the correct load in your washer and avoid overloading it. Try readjusting your load and try spinning again. Investigate any error codes: If your washing machine can't drain water properly, it won't enter the spin cycle. You may see codes like OE, 5E or SE on LG and Samsung washing machines, E20 or E21 on Electrolux and Westinghouse models, or F05 on Fisher & Paykel washers. These errors are usually caused by a blocked filter, faulty drain pump, or a kinked or clogged hose. Investigate the drive belt and motor: Check if the drive belt has slipped off, stretched or snapped — this can prevent the drum from turning at full speed. If the belt looks intact, the issue could be a worn or failing motor, especially if you hear humming but the drum doesn't spin or turns weakly during the cycle. Parts you might need: Washing machine drive belt, motor DIY or call a pro? Replacing a belt can be DIY-friendly. Motor replacement should be handled by a qualified service technician. 5. Burning smell during use Warning sign: You notice a hot or electrical smell during or after a wash cycle. Why it matters: This could indicate an overheating motor, worn belt, seized drain pump or electrical fault. What to do: Disconnect the power immediately: If the smell is pungent or visible smoke, turn off power at the circuit breaker. Check for overloading: A heavy load can cause the motor to overheat. Remove the laundry load and see if the machine works normally without laundry. Check drive belt: Inspect the drive belt for any signs of wear or tear. A slipping belt can cause a rubbery smell. Parts you might need: Drive belt, motor DIY or call a pro? Electrical issues should always be assessed by a qualified technician. 6. Door won't lock or open Warning sign: Your machine won't start because the door won't lock, or it won't unlock at the end of a cycle. Why it matters: Front loader washing machines rely on door lock mechanisms for safe operation. What to do: Check for trapped clothing preventing closure. Wait until the timer has expired or water has fully drained: With some front loaders the door will not open for about 2–5 minutes after the end of the wash cycle. Check if child lock function is on: If the child lock feature is on, you will not be able to open your washing machine door. The child lock symbol is often a small padlock and can be deactivated. Investigate error codes: If the machine shows a door error, the door lock assembly may need replacing. Parts you might need: Washing machine door lock, door switch DIY or call a pro? Door lock replacements are often DIY-friendly with the correct part. Read more in our DIY Guide: How to open a locked door on your front loader washing machine 7. Machine stops suddenly mid-cycle Warning sign: The machine powers off or freezes during a cycle. Why it matters: This may indicate overheating, control board faults, or sensor failure. What to do: Unplug the machine for 5–10 minutes to reset it. If the problem continues, internal components may need replacement. Parts you might need: Control board, pressure switch, motor capacitor DIY or call a pro? Control board replacement typically requires professional diagnosis. Call a qualified service technician. DIY repairs you can tackle Cleaning drain filters Replacing door seals Swapping inlet or drain hoses Replacing drive belts Adjusting machine levelling Clearing pump blockages When to call in the experts Motor replacement Bearing repairs Electrical faults Control board replacement Internal tub leaks Should you repair or replace? Time to replace when: Your machine is 12–15+ years old Repairs cost more than 50% of a new unit Multiple major components are failing You've had repeated breakdowns in 12 months Repair makes sense when: The appliance is under 10 years old Only one component needs replacing Repair cost is under $400–500 The issue is a common wear part (belt, seal, pump) Check out our YouTube channel Need help with your home appliance repairs and maintenance? Check out our DIY videos on our YouTube Channel. All the expert hints and tips to make appliance repairs a breeze! All the latest on the Statewide Blog Looking for more repair advice? Browse our blog for practical guides on appliance troubleshooting, maintenance tips and part replacements. Find out how to easily clean your washing machine lint trap filter, tips to get rid of washing machine smells and our ultimate washing machine troubleshooting guide. Need washing machine parts fast? Find genuine washing machine spare parts from all the leading brands including Bosch, LG, Samsung, Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel and more. Not sure what part you need? Call us on 1800 005 220 or chat with our team of local experts online.

Warning signs your fridge is failing (and what to do) Out of all your kitchen appliances, your fridge is the one appliance you absolutely can't live without! It runs 24/7, keeping your food fresh and your family fed. A bit of condensation or the odd funny noise? Probably nothing to worry about. But some warning signs mean your fridge is on its way out—and ignoring them could cost you hundreds in spoiled food or a complete breakdown. Here are the critical red flags that your fridge is failing, and what you should do about it. 1. Food is spoiling faster than normal Warning sign: You may start to notice your milk goes off well before the use by date, fruit and veg aren’t staying crisp or fresh and leftovers aren’t lasting as long as they should. Why it matters: Your fridge isn't maintaining the right temperature, which means it's not doing its job. This wastes money on spoiled food and can pose health risks. What to do: First look at the temperature setting—the Australian Standard for fridges uses a fresh food compartment average temperature of 3°C. Your freezer should be set close to -18°C. If it's too warm, the thermostat might be faulty, the door seal could be damaged, or the compressor could be failing. Parts you might need: fridge thermostat, fridge compressor, fridge seal DIY or call a pro? Adjusting temperature settings and swapping out a fridge door seal are easy. Thermostat or compressor issues may need a professional. Check out our guide: How to easily replace your fridge door seal. 2. Fridge running constantly or never turning off Warning sign: You notice the motor running all the time, or the fridge never seems to cycle off. Why it matters: This means your fridge is working overtime to maintain temperature. This can put a strain on your compressor and hike up your energy bill. What to do: Inspect the door seals first—worn seals let cold air escape, forcing the fridge to run constantly. Clean the condenser coils (usually at the back or underneath) as dust buildup makes the fridge work harder. If neither fixes it, the thermostat or compressor may be the problem. Parts you might need: fridge thermostat, fridge seal DIY or call a pro? Door seals and cleaning coils can be easily tackled. Compressor issues may need a professional. 3. Excessive frost or ice buildup Warning sign: Ice is building up inside the freezer (beyond normal frost), or you're seeing frost on the back wall of the fridge compartment. Why it matters: This usually means the defrost system isn't working properly, or the door seal is letting warm air in. It makes your fridge work harder and eats up valuable freezer space. What to do: Start by checking the door seal for gaps or damage. If the seal is fine, the defrost heater, defrost timer, or defrost thermostat might be faulty. Parts you might need: fridge door seals, fridge defrost heaters, fridge defrost timers DIY or call a pro? Door seals can be easily replaced. Defrost system components are trickier—best left to a professional unless you're experienced. 4. Unusual or loud noises Warning sign: Your usually quiet fridge is now making unusual sounds – loud humming, buzzing, clicking, or rattling. Why it matters: Different noises point to different problems. Loud humming often means the compressor is struggling. Clicking can indicate a failing start relay. Rattling might just be loose components, but it could also signal a failing fan. What to do: Identify where the noise is coming from. Check if anything is vibrating against the fridge or if items inside are rattling. If the noise is coming from the back, it could be the condenser fan or compressor. Clean the condenser coils and check the fan for obstructions. Parts you might need: fridge condenser fans, fridge evaporator, fridge compressor DIY or call a pro? Cleaning and checking for obstructions is DIY. Fan or compressor replacement needs a technician. 5. Condensation or moisture forming between door seal Warning sign: You notice condensation on the outside of your fridge, or moisture forming between the door seal. Why it matters: This usually means the door seal isn't sealing properly, allowing warm air in. It can also indicate humidity control problems or a failing door heater (in frost-free models). What to do: Inspect the door seal carefully—look for cracks, tears, or areas where it's not sitting flush. Clean the seal with warm soapy water. If it's damaged, replace it. Parts you might need: fridge seal DIY or call a pro? Door seal replacement is straightforward DIY. 6. Motor feels excessively hot Warning sign: The back of your fridge (where the compressor is located) feels much hotter than usual. Why it matters: Some warmth is normal, but excessive heat means the compressor is working too hard or overheating. What to do: Make sure there's proper ventilation around the fridge. Clean the condenser coils thoroughly. If it's still overheating, the compressor may be on its way out. Parts you might need: fridge compressor DIY or call a pro? Cleaning coils is DIY. Compressor replacement requires a licensed technician as it involves refrigerant handling. 7. Fridge light has stopped working Warning sign: The light inside your fridge doesn't turn on when you open the door. Why it matters: While not critical, a broken fridge light makes it hard to see what you're grabbing—especially during those midnight snack raids. What to do: First, try replacing the light globe—it's usually just screwed in or clipped in place. If the new globe doesn't work, check if the door switch is faulty (the little button the door presses when closed). If neither fixes it, there could be a wiring issue. Parts you might need: fridge globes, fridge switch DIY or call a pro? Replacing the globe is super easy. Door switches are usually straightforward too. If it's a wiring problem, call a technician. Check out our guide: How to easily replace a refrigerator light globe DIY repairs you can tackle Door seal replacement Cleaning condenser coils Clearing defrost drains Replacing water filters Light globe replacement Temperature adjustments When to call in the experts Compressor issues Refrigerant leaks Defrost system repairs (heaters, timers) Electrical faults Thermostat replacement Fan motor replacement Should you repair or replace? Time to replace when: Your fridge is 15+ years old AND repairs cost more than 50% of a new model Multiple major components are failing Your energy bills have crept up significantly You've had several repairs in the past year Repair makes sense when: It's less than 15 years old Only one component needs replacing The repair costs under $400-500 Simple fixes like seals, fans, or thermostats Safety first! Unplug the fridge or turn off power at the circuit breaker Give yourself plenty of working space Have towels ready for any water leaks Take photos before disconnecting anything Don't attempt refrigerant-related repairs—they require licensing Check out our YouTube channel Need help with your fridge repairs and maintenance? Check out our DIY videos on our YouTube Channel. All the expert hints and tips to make appliance repairs a breeze! All the latest on the Statewide blog Visit our blog for all the latest on fridge repairs and maintenance. We share guides to help you easily remove and replace your fridge door, how to deep clean your refrigerator and everything you need to know about fridge water filters. Need fridge parts fast? Find genuine fridge and freezer replacement parts from all the big brands — Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel, Hisense, LG, Samsung, Westinghouse, and more. With Australia's biggest range and fast delivery, we'll help you get your fridge running again in no time. Not sure what part you need? Our expert team is here to help! Call us on Free call 1800 005 220 or chat to us online.

Your oven is one of the hardest-working appliances in your kitchen—roasting, baking, grilling, and getting you through everything from Tuesday night pasta to Christmas lunch. Some issues are minor annoyances. Others are serious warning signs your oven is failing. Here’s what to watch out for. 1. Gas smell or burning odour Warning sign A persistent burning smell while cooking or a gas smell when you turn on your oven. Why it matters A gas smell may indicate a leak, which is a serious safety issue. A burning smell can suggest electrical problems or damaged insulation—both potential fire hazards. What to do If you smell gas: turn off the oven immediately, open windows, avoid using electrical switches, and call your gas provider or a licensed gas fitter straight away. If you smell burning: switch the oven off and don’t use it until it’s been checked by a professional. Don’t ignore it Gas leaks and electrical fires are serious. Get expert help immediately. 2. Uneven or inconsistent cooking Warning sign Your oven used to cook evenly, but now one side burns while the other stays raw, or baking times are inconsistent. Why it matters This often points to a failing heating element, a faulty thermostat, or (in fan-forced ovens) a fan that isn’t working correctly. What to do Check whether both heating elements glow evenly when the oven is on. If an element looks dim or doesn’t glow, it may need replacing. Use an oven thermometer to test whether the actual temperature matches the setting. Parts you might need: Oven heating elements, Oven thermostat, Oven fan DIY or call a pro? Heating element replacement is often a straightforward DIY repair. Thermostat and fan motor issues are best handled by a technician. 3. Oven won’t heat up Warning sign Your oven takes ages to reach temperature, or won’t heat up at all. Why it matters This usually means a heating element has failed, or there’s an issue with the thermostat, temperature sensor, or control board. What to do Turn the oven on and check whether the heating elements glow bright orange. If they don’t glow, the element may have failed. Once the oven is completely cool, inspect the element for blisters, cracks, splits, or small holes—these are clear signs it needs replacing. If the element glows normally but the oven still won’t heat correctly or maintain temperature, the thermostat or temperature sensor may be the issue. Parts you might need: Oven heating elements, Oven thermostat, Gas oven igniters DIY or call a pro? Heating elements are often a DIY job, but always switch power off at the switchboard before starting any work. If unsure, call a qualified electrician. 4. Door won’t close tightly Warning sign The oven door won’t close completely, feels loose, or you can feel heat escaping around the edges. Why it matters A faulty door seal allows heat to escape, which can cause uneven cooking and higher power bills. What to do Inspect the door seal (gasket) for cracks, tears, or flattening. Check hinges for looseness or bending. Replace worn seals or damaged hinges. Parts you might need: Oven door seals, Oven door hinges DIY or call a pro? This is usually an easy DIY fix.  Check out our guide: How to replace your oven door seal in 4 easy steps 5. Oven door glass is cracked or shattered Warning sign The glass in your oven door has cracked or shattered. Why it matters Cracked glass is a safety hazard and can shatter during use. What to do Stop using the oven immediately if the glass is cracked or broken. Replace the oven door glass as soon as possible. Parts you might need: Oven doors and glass DIY or call a pro? Confident DIYers can tackle this, but it can be fiddly. 6. Error codes or control panel malfunctions Warning sign Your oven displays error codes, the control panel buttons don’t respond, or the display is blank or flickering. Why it matters This typically indicates an electrical fault or a failing control board (PCB). What to do Check your oven manual to identify what the error code means. Try resetting the oven at the circuit breaker. If the issue persists, the control board may need replacing. Parts you might need: Oven PCBs DIY or call a pro? Control boards involve electrical work—best handled by a professional. 7. Oven light won’t turn on Warning sign The oven light doesn’t turn on when you open the door or switch the oven on. Why it matters It’s not usually a major safety issue, but it makes it harder to check cooking progress without opening the door and losing heat. What to do Replace the globe first. If that doesn’t fix it, the light socket or wiring may be faulty. Parts you might need: Oven globes DIY or call a pro? Replacing the globe is easy. If the socket or wiring is faulty, you may need a technician. Check out our guide: How to change an oven globe 8. Loud or unusual noises Warning sign Your oven is making loud humming, rattling, grinding, or clicking noises that weren’t there before. Why it matters Unusual noises often mean the fan motor is failing (fan-forced ovens) or there’s a loose component. What to do Try to identify if the noise is coming from the fan area. Check for loose panels or screws (only when oven is off and cool). If the noise persists, the fan motor or blade may need replacing. Parts you might need: Oven fan, Oven motor DIY or call a pro? Experienced DIYers may handle this. If in doubt, call a professional. DIY repairs you can tackle Oven globe replacement Door seal replacement Heating element replacement (if confident) Cleaning and minor maintenance When to call in the experts Anything involving gas connections or gas smells Electrical faults (sparking, smoking, control board issues) Thermostat replacement Fan motor replacement Self-cleaning mechanism repairs Should you repair or replace? Time to replace when Your oven is 15+ years old and repairs cost more than half the price of a new oven. Multiple major parts are failing at once. The oven cavity or structure is damaged. You’ve had several expensive repairs recently. Repair makes sense when It’s under 15 years old and replacement parts are still available. Only one component needs replacing. The repair costs under $400–$500. Safety first Switch off the oven at the power point and at the switchboard. For gas ovens, turn off the gas supply. Let the oven cool completely before touching anything. Place towels or newspaper down to protect your floor. Take photos before disconnecting anything. Check out our YouTube channel Need help with home appliance repairs and maintenance? Visit our YouTube channel for simple, expert tips. All the latest on the Statewide blog Visit our blog for the latest on oven repairs and maintenance. Explore our essential guide to oven parts and oven fixes for common oven problems. Need oven parts fast? We stock genuine parts for all major oven brands— Bosch, Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel, Miele, Smeg, Westinghouse, and more. Not sure what part you need? Call our expert local team on 1800 005 220 or chat to us online. We love to help!