Statewide Appliance Spares Blog
Warning signs your washing machine is failing (and what to do)
If there is one household appliance you can't live without, it's your washing machine. Your washer can handle multiple loads each week, turning dirty clothes into fresh brights. Regular maintenance and care will keep your washer running like new for many years. Sometimes there are red flags that indicate your washer may be on the brink of a breakdown. Here are some of the warning signs your washing machine is failing — and what you should do about it.
Safety First!
Before attempting any repair:
- Unplug the machine or switch off at the circuit breaker
- Turn off the water supply
- Have towels ready for residual water
- Take photos before disconnecting wires
- If unsure, contact a qualified technician
1. Water isn't draining properly
Warning sign:
Water remains in the drum at the end of a cycle, or your machine displays a drain error code.
Why it matters:
If water can't drain, your clothes won't rinse properly, and your machine can't spin efficiently.
What to do:
Check the drain pump (usually located behind a small panel at the front). Remove any lint and debris that may be clogging the drain pump. If a clogged drain pump is not the problem, inspect your drain hose for any kinks or bends and straighten the hose. Check the hose for any blockages or obstructions.
Parts you might need:
Washing machine drain pump, drain hose
DIY or call a pro?
Cleaning the filter is easy DIY. Replacing a drain pump is achievable for confident DIYers. Electrical diagnostics may require a technician.
Check out our guide to fixing a washing machine that won't drain.
2. Washing machine shakes or makes weird noises
Warning sign:
Your washing machine shakes excessively, moves or makes loud thumping noises.
Why it matters:
Unbalanced loads can cause noise, but persistent banging may mean worn suspension rods, shock absorbers or drum bearings.
What to do:
Check your washer is level: This is often a result of your washing machine not sitting level on the floor. It should be positioned on a solid, flat level surface.
Ensure your load is balanced: Open your washer and adjust your laundry load if it has all moved to one side. Replace worn suspension springs: If vibration continues, it could be due to a worn suspension spring. With regular use, the suspension springs in top loaders can become stretched, damaged or can even detach and will need replacing.
Check shock absorbers: Shock absorbers sit between the outer tub and base frame to reduce vibration during the spin cycle. If they're worn or leaking, you'll hear loud banging as the tub hits the frame — check for damage or fluid leaks and replace both if needed.
Replace worn drum bearings: If shaking continues, worn drum bearings may be the cause. When bearings wear out, the drum can wobble during the spin cycle, leading to excessive vibration and loud rumbling noises.
Parts you might need:
Suspension rods, shock absorbers, drum bearings
DIY or call a pro?
Level adjustments are simple DIY. Suspension parts can be replaced, but bearing issues often require professional repair.
3. Water leaking from your washing machine
Warning sign:
Puddles forming beneath or around your washing machine.
Why it matters:
Leaks can cause serious water damage to floors and cabinetry if left unchecked.
What to do:
Visually inspect the hoses: Look for any signs of wear, including bulges, cracks, fraying, or leaks. Pay close attention to areas near the connections, as these are common failure points. Replace worn out hoses.
Check out our guide: How to inspect and easily replace your washing machine hoses
Inspect the door seal (front loaders): Wipe down the drum, door and gasket. Give the seals a thorough clean with a toothbrush or soft bristled sponge. Water, dirt, and grime can get trapped in the seal's folds, leaving a musty smell or cause mould or mildew to grow. Check the seals for any damage, splits or cracks and replace if necessary. Lastly, look underneath for signs of pump or tub leaks.
Parts you might need:
Washing machine hoses, washing machine door seal, pumps
DIY or call a pro?
Hoses and door seals are straightforward DIY replacements. Internal tub leaks require professional assessment.
4. Machine not spinning properly
Warning sign:
Clothes are soaking wet at the end of the cycle.
Why it matters:
A failed spin cycle increases drying time and may indicate motor, belt, or control issues.
What to do:
Check the load isn't too heavy: The easiest way to avoid an imbalanced drum is by making sure you place the correct load in your washer and avoid overloading it. Try readjusting your load and try spinning again.
Investigate any error codes: If your washing machine can't drain water properly, it won't enter the spin cycle. You may see codes like OE, 5E or SE on LG and Samsung washing machines, E20 or E21 on Electrolux and Westinghouse models, or F05 on Fisher & Paykel washers. These errors are usually caused by a blocked filter, faulty drain pump, or a kinked or clogged hose.
Investigate the drive belt and motor: Check if the drive belt has slipped off, stretched or snapped — this can prevent the drum from turning at full speed. If the belt looks intact, the issue could be a worn or failing motor, especially if you hear humming but the drum doesn't spin or turns weakly during the cycle.
Parts you might need:
Washing machine drive belt, motor
DIY or call a pro?
Replacing a belt can be DIY-friendly. Motor replacement should be handled by a qualified service technician.
5. Burning smell during use
Warning sign:
You notice a hot or electrical smell during or after a wash cycle.
Why it matters:
This could indicate an overheating motor, worn belt, seized drain pump or electrical fault.
What to do:
Disconnect the power immediately: If the smell is pungent or visible smoke, turn off power at the circuit breaker.
Check for overloading: A heavy load can cause the motor to overheat. Remove the laundry load and see if the machine works normally without laundry.
Check drive belt: Inspect the drive belt for any signs of wear or tear. A slipping belt can cause a rubbery smell.
Parts you might need:
DIY or call a pro?
Electrical issues should always be assessed by a qualified technician.
6. Door won't lock or open
Warning sign:
Your machine won't start because the door won't lock, or it won't unlock at the end of a cycle.
Why it matters:
Front loader washing machines rely on door lock mechanisms for safe operation.
What to do:
Check for trapped clothing preventing closure.
Wait until the timer has expired or water has fully drained: With some front loaders the door will not open for about 2–5 minutes after the end of the wash cycle.
Check if child lock function is on: If the child lock feature is on, you will not be able to open your washing machine door. The child lock symbol is often a small padlock and can be deactivated.
Investigate error codes: If the machine shows a door error, the door lock assembly may need replacing.
Parts you might need:
Washing machine door lock, door switch
DIY or call a pro?
Door lock replacements are often DIY-friendly with the correct part.
Read more in our DIY Guide: How to open a locked door on your front loader washing machine
7. Machine stops suddenly mid-cycle
Warning sign:
The machine powers off or freezes during a cycle.
Why it matters:
This may indicate overheating, control board faults, or sensor failure.
What to do:
Unplug the machine for 5–10 minutes to reset it. If the problem continues, internal components may need replacement.
Parts you might need:
Control board, pressure switch, motor capacitor
DIY or call a pro?
Control board replacement typically requires professional diagnosis. Call a qualified service technician.
DIY repairs you can tackle
- Cleaning drain filters
- Replacing door seals
- Swapping inlet or drain hoses
- Replacing drive belts
- Adjusting machine levelling
- Clearing pump blockages
When to call in the experts
- Motor replacement
- Bearing repairs
- Electrical faults
- Control board replacement
- Internal tub leaks
Should you repair or replace?
Time to replace when:
- Your machine is 12–15+ years old
- Repairs cost more than 50% of a new unit
- Multiple major components are failing
- You've had repeated breakdowns in 12 months
Repair makes sense when:
- The appliance is under 10 years old
- Only one component needs replacing
- Repair cost is under $400–500
- The issue is a common wear part (belt, seal, pump)
Check out our YouTube channel
Need help with your home appliance repairs and maintenance? Check out our DIY videos on our YouTube Channel. All the expert hints and tips to make appliance repairs a breeze!
All the latest on the Statewide Blog
Looking for more repair advice? Browse our blog for practical guides on appliance troubleshooting, maintenance tips and part replacements. Find out how to easily clean your washing machine lint trap filter, tips to get rid of washing machine smells and our ultimate washing machine troubleshooting guide.
Need washing machine parts fast?
Find genuine washing machine spare parts from all the leading brands including Bosch, LG, Samsung, Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel and more.
Not sure what part you need? Call us on 1800 005 220 or chat with our team of local experts online.
Related articles
Warning signs your fridge is failing (and what to do)
Warning signs your fridge is failing (and what to do)
Out of all your kitchen appliances, your fridge is the one appliance you absolutely can't live without! It runs 24/7, keeping your food fresh and your family fed. A bit of condensation or the odd funny noise? Probably nothing to worry about. But some warning signs mean your fridge is on its way out—and ignoring them could cost you hundreds in spoiled food or a complete breakdown. Here are the critical red flags that your fridge is failing, and what you should do about it.
1. Food is spoiling faster than normal
Warning sign: You may start to notice your milk goes off well before the use by date, fruit and veg aren’t staying crisp or fresh and leftovers aren’t lasting as long as they should.
Why it matters: Your fridge isn't maintaining the right temperature, which means it's not doing its job. This wastes money on spoiled food and can pose health risks.
What to do: First look at the temperature setting—the Australian Standard for fridges uses a fresh food compartment average temperature of 3°C. Your freezer should be set close to -18°C. If it's too warm, the thermostat might be faulty, the door seal could be damaged, or the compressor could be failing.
Parts you might need: fridge thermostat, fridge compressor, fridge seal
DIY or call a pro? Adjusting temperature settings and swapping out a fridge door seal are easy. Thermostat or compressor issues may need a professional.
Check out our guide: How to easily replace your fridge door seal.
2. Fridge running constantly or never turning off
Warning sign: You notice the motor running all the time, or the fridge never seems to cycle off.
Why it matters: This means your fridge is working overtime to maintain temperature. This can put a strain on your compressor and hike up your energy bill.
What to do: Inspect the door seals first—worn seals let cold air escape, forcing the fridge to run constantly. Clean the condenser coils (usually at the back or underneath) as dust buildup makes the fridge work harder. If neither fixes it, the thermostat or compressor may be the problem.
Parts you might need: fridge thermostat, fridge seal
DIY or call a pro? Door seals and cleaning coils can be easily tackled. Compressor issues may need a professional.
3. Excessive frost or ice buildup
Warning sign: Ice is building up inside the freezer (beyond normal frost), or you're seeing frost on the back wall of the fridge compartment.
Why it matters: This usually means the defrost system isn't working properly, or the door seal is letting warm air in. It makes your fridge work harder and eats up valuable freezer space.
What to do: Start by checking the door seal for gaps or damage. If the seal is fine, the defrost heater, defrost timer, or defrost thermostat might be faulty.
Parts you might need: fridge door seals, fridge defrost heaters, fridge defrost timers
DIY or call a pro? Door seals can be easily replaced. Defrost system components are trickier—best left to a professional unless you're experienced.
4. Unusual or loud noises
Warning sign: Your usually quiet fridge is now making unusual sounds – loud humming, buzzing, clicking, or rattling.
Why it matters: Different noises point to different problems. Loud humming often means the compressor is struggling. Clicking can indicate a failing start relay. Rattling might just be loose components, but it could also signal a failing fan.
What to do: Identify where the noise is coming from. Check if anything is vibrating against the fridge or if items inside are rattling. If the noise is coming from the back, it could be the condenser fan or compressor. Clean the condenser coils and check the fan for obstructions.
Parts you might need: fridge condenser fans, fridge evaporator, fridge compressor
DIY or call a pro? Cleaning and checking for obstructions is DIY. Fan or compressor replacement needs a technician.
5. Condensation or moisture forming between door seal
Warning sign: You notice condensation on the outside of your fridge, or moisture forming between the door seal.
Why it matters: This usually means the door seal isn't sealing properly, allowing warm air in. It can also indicate humidity control problems or a failing door heater (in frost-free models).
What to do: Inspect the door seal carefully—look for cracks, tears, or areas where it's not sitting flush. Clean the seal with warm soapy water. If it's damaged, replace it.
Parts you might need: fridge seal
DIY or call a pro? Door seal replacement is straightforward DIY.
6. Motor feels excessively hot
Warning sign: The back of your fridge (where the compressor is located) feels much hotter than usual.
Why it matters: Some warmth is normal, but excessive heat means the compressor is working too hard or overheating.
What to do: Make sure there's proper ventilation around the fridge. Clean the condenser coils thoroughly. If it's still overheating, the compressor may be on its way out.
Parts you might need: fridge compressor
DIY or call a pro? Cleaning coils is DIY. Compressor replacement requires a licensed technician as it involves refrigerant handling.
7. Fridge light has stopped working
Warning sign: The light inside your fridge doesn't turn on when you open the door.
Why it matters: While not critical, a broken fridge light makes it hard to see what you're grabbing—especially during those midnight snack raids.
What to do: First, try replacing the light globe—it's usually just screwed in or clipped in place. If the new globe doesn't work, check if the door switch is faulty (the little button the door presses when closed). If neither fixes it, there could be a wiring issue.
Parts you might need: fridge globes, fridge switch
DIY or call a pro? Replacing the globe is super easy. Door switches are usually straightforward too. If it's a wiring problem, call a technician.
Check out our guide: How to easily replace a refrigerator light globe
DIY repairs you can tackle
Door seal replacement
Cleaning condenser coils
Clearing defrost drains
Replacing water filters
Light globe replacement
Temperature adjustments
When to call in the experts
Compressor issues
Refrigerant leaks
Defrost system repairs (heaters, timers)
Electrical faults
Thermostat replacement
Fan motor replacement
Should you repair or replace?
Time to replace when:
Your fridge is 15+ years old AND repairs cost more than 50% of a new model
Multiple major components are failing
Your energy bills have crept up significantly
You've had several repairs in the past year
Repair makes sense when:
It's less than 15 years old
Only one component needs replacing
The repair costs under $400-500
Simple fixes like seals, fans, or thermostats
Safety first!
Unplug the fridge or turn off power at the circuit breaker
Give yourself plenty of working space
Have towels ready for any water leaks
Take photos before disconnecting anything
Don't attempt refrigerant-related repairs—they require licensing
Check out our YouTube channel
Need help with your fridge repairs and maintenance? Check out our DIY videos on our YouTube Channel. All the expert hints and tips to make appliance repairs a breeze!
All the latest on the Statewide blog
Visit our blog for all the latest on fridge repairs and maintenance. We share guides to help you easily remove and replace your fridge door, how to deep clean your refrigerator and everything you need to know about fridge water filters.
Need fridge parts fast?
Find genuine fridge and freezer replacement parts from all the big brands — Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel, Hisense, LG, Samsung, Westinghouse, and more. With Australia's biggest range and fast delivery, we'll help you get your fridge running again in no time.
Not sure what part you need? Our expert team is here to help! Call us on Free call 1800 005 220 or chat to us online.
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Warning signs your oven is failing (and what to do)
Your oven is one of the hardest-working appliances in your kitchen—roasting, baking, grilling, and getting you through everything from Tuesday night pasta to Christmas lunch. Some issues are minor annoyances. Others are serious warning signs your oven is failing. Here’s what to watch out for.
1. Gas smell or burning odour
Warning sign
A persistent burning smell while cooking or a gas smell when you turn on your oven.
Why it matters
A gas smell may indicate a leak, which is a serious safety issue. A burning smell can suggest electrical problems or damaged insulation—both potential fire hazards.
What to do
If you smell gas: turn off the oven immediately, open windows, avoid using electrical switches, and call your gas provider or a licensed gas fitter straight away.
If you smell burning: switch the oven off and don’t use it until it’s been checked by a professional.
Don’t ignore it
Gas leaks and electrical fires are serious. Get expert help immediately.
2. Uneven or inconsistent cooking
Warning sign
Your oven used to cook evenly, but now one side burns while the other stays raw, or baking times are inconsistent.
Why it matters
This often points to a failing heating element, a faulty thermostat, or (in fan-forced ovens) a fan that isn’t working correctly.
What to do
Check whether both heating elements glow evenly when the oven is on.
If an element looks dim or doesn’t glow, it may need replacing.
Use an oven thermometer to test whether the actual temperature matches the setting.
Parts you might need: Oven heating elements, Oven thermostat, Oven fan
DIY or call a pro?
Heating element replacement is often a straightforward DIY repair. Thermostat and fan motor issues are best handled by a technician.
3. Oven won’t heat up
Warning sign
Your oven takes ages to reach temperature, or won’t heat up at all.
Why it matters
This usually means a heating element has failed, or there’s an issue with the thermostat, temperature sensor, or control board.
What to do
Turn the oven on and check whether the heating elements glow bright orange. If they don’t glow, the element may have failed.
Once the oven is completely cool, inspect the element for blisters, cracks, splits, or small holes—these are clear signs it needs replacing.
If the element glows normally but the oven still won’t heat correctly or maintain temperature, the thermostat or temperature sensor may be the issue.
Parts you might need: Oven heating elements, Oven thermostat, Gas oven igniters
DIY or call a pro?
Heating elements are often a DIY job, but always switch power off at the switchboard before starting any work. If unsure, call a qualified electrician.
4. Door won’t close tightly
Warning sign
The oven door won’t close completely, feels loose, or you can feel heat escaping around the edges.
Why it matters
A faulty door seal allows heat to escape, which can cause uneven cooking and higher power bills.
What to do
Inspect the door seal (gasket) for cracks, tears, or flattening.
Check hinges for looseness or bending.
Replace worn seals or damaged hinges.
Parts you might need: Oven door seals, Oven door hinges
DIY or call a pro?
This is usually an easy DIY fix.
Check out our guide: How to replace your oven door seal in 4 easy steps
5. Oven door glass is cracked or shattered
Warning sign
The glass in your oven door has cracked or shattered.
Why it matters
Cracked glass is a safety hazard and can shatter during use.
What to do
Stop using the oven immediately if the glass is cracked or broken. Replace the oven door glass as soon as possible.
Parts you might need: Oven doors and glass
DIY or call a pro?
Confident DIYers can tackle this, but it can be fiddly.
6. Error codes or control panel malfunctions
Warning sign
Your oven displays error codes, the control panel buttons don’t respond, or the display is blank or flickering.
Why it matters
This typically indicates an electrical fault or a failing control board (PCB).
What to do
Check your oven manual to identify what the error code means.
Try resetting the oven at the circuit breaker.
If the issue persists, the control board may need replacing.
Parts you might need: Oven PCBs
DIY or call a pro?
Control boards involve electrical work—best handled by a professional.
7. Oven light won’t turn on
Warning sign
The oven light doesn’t turn on when you open the door or switch the oven on.
Why it matters
It’s not usually a major safety issue, but it makes it harder to check cooking progress without opening the door and losing heat.
What to do
Replace the globe first.
If that doesn’t fix it, the light socket or wiring may be faulty.
Parts you might need: Oven globes
DIY or call a pro?
Replacing the globe is easy. If the socket or wiring is faulty, you may need a technician.
Check out our guide: How to change an oven globe
8. Loud or unusual noises
Warning sign
Your oven is making loud humming, rattling, grinding, or clicking noises that weren’t there before.
Why it matters
Unusual noises often mean the fan motor is failing (fan-forced ovens) or there’s a loose component.
What to do
Try to identify if the noise is coming from the fan area.
Check for loose panels or screws (only when oven is off and cool).
If the noise persists, the fan motor or blade may need replacing.
Parts you might need: Oven fan, Oven motor
DIY or call a pro?
Experienced DIYers may handle this. If in doubt, call a professional.
DIY repairs you can tackle
Oven globe replacement
Door seal replacement
Heating element replacement (if confident)
Cleaning and minor maintenance
When to call in the experts
Anything involving gas connections or gas smells
Electrical faults (sparking, smoking, control board issues)
Thermostat replacement
Fan motor replacement
Self-cleaning mechanism repairs
Should you repair or replace?
Time to replace when
Your oven is 15+ years old and repairs cost more than half the price of a new oven.
Multiple major parts are failing at once.
The oven cavity or structure is damaged.
You’ve had several expensive repairs recently.
Repair makes sense when
It’s under 15 years old and replacement parts are still available.
Only one component needs replacing.
The repair costs under $400–$500.
Safety first
Switch off the oven at the power point and at the switchboard.
For gas ovens, turn off the gas supply.
Let the oven cool completely before touching anything.
Place towels or newspaper down to protect your floor.
Take photos before disconnecting anything.
Check out our YouTube channel
Need help with home appliance repairs and maintenance? Visit our YouTube channel for simple, expert tips.
All the latest on the Statewide blog
Visit our blog for the latest on oven repairs and maintenance. Explore our essential guide to oven parts and oven fixes for common oven problems.
Need oven parts fast?
We stock genuine parts for all major oven brands— Bosch, Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel, Miele, Smeg, Westinghouse, and more.
Not sure what part you need? Call our expert local team on 1800 005 220 or chat to us online. We love to help!
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Warning signs your dishwasher is failing (and what to do)
Let's be honest—your dishwasher is probably one of the hardest working appliances in your home. A few water spots or the occasional weird noise? Sure, that's annoying but not exactly panic-worthy. But some warning signs deserve your immediate attention. We're talking potential water damage, safety issues, or a complete breakdown that leaves you hand-washing dishes for weeks. Here are the warning signs that mean your dishwasher is failing, and what you can do about it.
Looking for a specific part? Browse our full range of dishwasher spare parts.
Safety first!
Before you start any repair work:
Turn off power at the circuit breaker
Turn off the water supply
Place towels down to catch leaks
Have a bucket ready for residual water
Take photos before disconnecting anything
1. Burning smell or hot exterior
Warning sign: There's a burning smell when you run a load, or the outside of your dishwasher is unusually hot.
Why it matters: This usually means something’s wrong with the electrical system or the motor is overheating, which is a potential fire hazard.
What to do: Turn off the dishwasher at the circuit breaker immediately. Don't use it until a professional has inspected your appliance.
Don’t ignore it: Potential fire hazards should always be investigated. Call in the experts.
2. Water under or around unit
Warning sign: You keep finding puddles on the floor near your dishwasher, or notice damp cabinets close by.
Why it matters: Leaks can quietly destroy your floors and cabinets—and repairs can be expensive.
What to do: Check the door seal for cracks or damage and inspect drain hoses for leaks. If the seal is worn, replace it immediately. If hoses are damaged or connections are loose, tighten or replace them.
Parts you might need: dishwasher seals, dishwasher hoses
DIY or call a pro? Seals and hoses are pretty straightforward to replace yourself. But if you can't work out where the leak's coming from, it's time to call a professional to have a look.
Check out our guide: How to easily replace your dishwasher door seal
3. Circuit breaker trips repeatedly
Warning sign: Your dishwasher keeps tripping the circuit breaker, usually at the start of a cycle.
Why it matters: This usually means there’s a short circuit or faulty wiring.
What to do: Stop using the dishwasher immediately and get an electrician to diagnose the problem.
Don’t ignore it: Repeated electrical faults can damage your home's electrical system and create fire risks.
4. Door won't latch or seal properly
Warning sign: The door won't close properly, pops open mid-cycle, or you can see daylight around the edges when it's "closed."
Why it matters: Without a proper seal, water will leak during cycles, and the dishwasher won't heat properly or clean effectively. The door latch mechanism may also be at risk of complete failure.
What to do: Check if the latch or seal looks damaged. If it does, stop using the machine until it’s fixed.
Parts you might need: dishwasher seals, dishwasher latches
DIY or call a pro? This is usually an easy DIY fix.
5. Visible rust, corrosion or brown water
Warning sign: Rust spots inside the tub, brownish water after a cycle, or your racks are looking pretty corroded.
Why it matters: Rust means the inside of your dishwasher is starting to break down. It can make your dishes dirty and usually means the machine is on its last legs.
What to do: If rust is extensive or you see rusty water, it's time to consider replacement. For minor rust on racks or baskets, replace them.
Parts you might need: dishwasher baskets and racks
When to replace: If the tub itself is rusting, you're better off buying new than repairing.
6. Strange noises - grinding, screeching or buzzing
Warning sign: You hear new, loud grinding, screeching, or buzzing noises.
Why it matters: These sounds usually mean something inside—like the bearings, motor or pump—is wearing out.
What to do: Stop the cycle and check if anything is blocking the spray arms. If the noise continues after clearing debris, the motor or pump may be failing.
Parts you might need: dishwasher spray arms, dishwasher motor, dishwasher pump
DIY or call a pro? Spray arms can easily be replaced. Motors and pumps need either an experienced DIYer or a service tech.
7. Dishwasher not drying properly (dishes hot but soaking wet)
Warning sign: When the cycle ends, your dishes are piping hot—but still soaking wet.
Why it matters: This usually means the heating element or thermostat isn’t working right—so your dishwasher can’t dry the dishes. Over time, the problem will continue to get worse.
What to do: Make sure you’re using rinse aid and that it’s topped up. Still wet? It might be time to replace the heating element.
Parts you might need: dishwasher heating element
DIY or call a pro? Confident DIYers can do this, otherwise call a service tech.
8. Energy bill has jumped
Warning sign: Your electricity or water bills have jumped for no obvious reason.
Why it matters: Worn parts make your dishwasher work harder and run longer, costing you more.
What to do: Clean or replace the filter, and check the spray arms and heating element for buildup.
Parts you might need: dishwasher filter, dishwasher spray arms, dishwasher heating element
Cost reality: Even a small fix—like a $50 part—can save you on monthly energy bills and pay for itself quickly.
Not sure how to clean your dishwasher filter? Read our guide on how to clean and maintain your dishwasher for better performance.
DIY vs professional
DIY repairs you can tackle:
Door seal replacement
Drain hose repairs
Filter cleaning and replacement
Spray arm cleaning and replacement
Rack replacement
Call in the experts:
Anything electrical (burning smells, tripping breakers, sparking)
Motor or pump replacement
Water inlet valve replacement
Control board problems
Mystery leaks you can't locate
Should you repair or replace?
Time to replace when:
Your dishwasher is 15+ years old AND repairs cost more than half the price of a new one
The tub is seriously rusted
Multiple major parts are failing at once
You've had several repairs recently
Repair makes sense when:
It's less than 15 years old
Only one part needs replacing
It's a quality brand
The repair is under $300–$400
Related guides
Tackling hard water problems with dishwasher softener salt
How to effectively descale your dishwasher
Why is my dishwasher not drying properly
How to clean your dishwasher and eliminate bad smells
How to easily replace your dishwasher door seal
Check out our YouTube channel
Need help with your home appliance repairs and maintenance? Check out our DIY videos on our YouTube channel. All the expert hints and tips to make appliance repairs a breeze!
Need dishwasher parts fast?
We stock genuine parts for all major dishwasher brands—Bosch, Electrolux, Fisher & Paykel, Samsung, LG, Miele, and more. With Australia’s biggest range and fast delivery, we’ll help you get your dishwasher running again in no time.
Not sure what part you need? Our expert team is here to help. Call us on Free call 1800 005 220 or chat to us online.
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Guide to common oven symbols, settings and functions
Ovens offer a variety of settings and functions to get the best cooking and baking results. Different brands may use slight variations, however many oven symbols are universal and designed to help you identify the different functions of your oven.
If you tend to gravitate toward the functions you are most familiar and comfortable with, you are not alone! We take the guesswork out of deciphering those little pictures on your oven with our guide to common oven symbols, settings and functions.
Oven symbols at a glance
Conventional oven
Lower heating element
Upper heating element
Fan forced
Fan forced grill
Grill
Partial grill
Defrost
Plate warming
Warmer
Oven light
Child lock
Alarm
Self cleaning / pyrolytic
FAQs
Common mistakes
Find spare parts
Conventional oven symbol: what it means and when to use it
The symbol for conventional heating is two lines – one at the top and one at the bottom. This means that both the top and bottom heating elements will radiate heat. The bottom heating element provides the primary source of heat, while the upper element delivers intense top-down heat to brown and grill your food.
Ideal for: Roasting meat and vegetables or single shelf cooking.
Lower heating element
The lower heating element oven symbol is represented by a single line at the bottom. This indicates that the lower heating element is in use.
Ideal for: Slow cooking, casserole baking or for food that requires a crispy base such as pizza or a pastry case.
Upper heating element
The upper heating element symbol is represented by a single line at the top. This indicates that the upper heating element is in use.
Ideal for: Baking pies with a pie crust.
Fan forced
Fan forced symbols feature a fan inside a circle. A fan forced oven has a heating element around the fan to circulate and distribute heat evenly. This allows for a faster cooking time, even temperature and a decrease in energy consumption. This will likely be your most used setting.
Ideal for: Batch cooking, cakes, cookies.
Fan forced grill
This symbol features a fan with a zig zag line above it. When this is switched on, the grill and fan will operate at the same time. The fan’s function is to spread the grill’s heat. Unlike the standalone grill, your oven door should be closed when using this function.
Ideal for: Cooking through thicker meats or fish.
Grill
The grill icon features a zig zag line on the top. It is also sometimes represented with a double zig zag line. This grill setting uses the entire grill of the oven.
Ideal for: Vegetables, crisping and browning food.
Partial grill
Some ovens offer a partial grill setting, represented by a smaller zig zag line. This indicates that only part of the grill is in use. You will need to place your food in the right spot (usually in the centre of your oven).
Ideal for: Grilling smaller portions/amounts.
Defrost
The defrost function can reduce your defrosting time. The oven does not use heat on this function, instead it circulates room temperature air (30°C) around the food to give it an even and fast defrosting result.
Ideal for: Defrosting food when you are in a hurry.
Plate warming
The plate warming symbol shows three lines stacked on top of each other. This keeps your dinner plates safely warm.
Ideal for: Keeping your dinner guests happy.
Warmer
Often depicted as a dish with rising steam, this function keeps your food warm, without cooking it.
Ideal for: Warming food or plates so they do not cool too quickly.
Oven light
Your oven cooks with the light on so you can view your cooking progress. Also handy when cleaning your oven so you can take a better look.
Child lock
A small key symbol indicates that the child lock feature is activated.
Ideal for: Keeping children safe when the appliance is on or when the self-clean function is in operation.
Alarm
The alarm symbol will enable you to manually set your alarm.
Ideal for: Setting a reminder to check your cooking when your oven is in use.
Self cleaning or Pyrolytic cleaning oven symbols
The self cleaning function shows a series of black dots or diamonds decreasing size from top to bottom. It can also be represented by the letter P. High temperature pyrolytic cleaning heats your oven to approx. 500°C. The intense heat will incinerate any built up grime and then the remaining ash can be wiped away.
Oven symbols and settings – Frequently asked questions
What do oven symbols mean?Oven symbols represent different heating functions, such as conventional heat, fan forced cooking, grilling, or bottom heat. Each symbol activates specific heating elements to suit different types of cooking.
Is fan forced the same as convection?Yes. Fan forced ovens use a fan to circulate hot air evenly, similar to convection ovens, allowing food to cook more evenly and often at lower temperatures.
Which oven setting is best for baking?Conventional heat or fan forced settings are commonly used for baking. The best option depends on the recipe and whether you’re cooking on one shelf or multiple shelves.
Why does my oven have symbols I never use?Some symbols are designed for specific tasks like grilling, defrosting, or pizza cooking. Understanding these settings can improve cooking results and energy efficiency.
Now that you are familiar with your oven symbols and functions, why not get familiar with the different parts of your oven and how they operate? Check out our essential guide to oven parts.
Common oven symbol mistakes to avoid
Using grill instead of fan forced for baking
Leaving the oven door open when using fan forced grill
Using self-clean too frequently, which can damage seals
Understanding your oven settings can help you cook more efficiently, avoid unnecessary wear, and keep your appliance running longer — saving money and reducing waste.
Find all your oven spare parts at Statewide
Shop for oven & cooktop spares at Statewide Appliance Spares. Our most popular oven and cooktop spare parts are always in stock, including oven elements, racks, hinges, seals, thermostats, knobs and more. We have everything you could possibly need at competitive prices, with fast Australia wide delivery.
Need help with home appliance repairs and maintenance? Check out our DIY videos on our YouTube channel. We share all the expert hints and tips to make appliance repairs a breeze!
Last updated: February 2026
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